Kundan jewellery, a venerable and exquisite art form, stands as a testament to India's rich cultural heritage and unparalleled craftsmanship. As one of the oldest forms of Kundan jewellery in the country, its unique gem-setting technique distinguishes it from all others. This involves inserting hyper-purified gold foil between the gemstones and their mounts, a method exclusively practiced in India.
The process Kundan jewellery begins with refining gold into pliable strips,
achieving a state where it becomes naturally adhesive. Artisans then
meticulously press the gold foil around the stones using specialized steel
tools, shaping and burnishing it to realize their artistic vision. This
technique offers unparalleled freedom, allowing for seamless integration with
enamels, previously set stones, or even organic materials like wood and ivory.
Until the advent of claw settings in the 19th century,
influenced by Western jewellery, Kundan jewellery was the predominant method
for setting stones in gold. Its significance peaked during the Mughal era, with
Emperor Akbar's historian, Abul Fazl, noting the technique's ability to render
gold so pure and ductile that it rivaled legendary tales. Kundan
jewellery empowered artisans to create intricate designs with precision,
setting stones according to their aesthetic sensibilities.
Kundan jewellery exemplifies a harmonious blend of
artistry and technical skill. It reflects India's historical grandeur and
continues to captivate with its timeless appeal. Preserving this tradition
ensures that future generations can appreciate the enduring beauty and cultural
significance of Kundan.
